Plush Octopus Tutorial

Octopus Plush Tutorail

Mr. Octopus finally has a friend (Ms. Octopi, maybe?). This means that you guys get to finally see the long-awaited (and promised) tutorial πŸ™‚

Have you guys seen this photo floating around Pinterest?

octopus plush pinterest pin

The watermark on the image links to here but I can’t read what the page says (I think its in Chinese?Or some other totally different language, obviously this isn’t my area of expertise :P) so I don’t know where this photo came from. That did not make it easier to make this octopus, especially considering that I know very little about sewing…like at all, it is not my favorite thing to do. But the octopus was adorable and the cloth was a remnant that only cost me a few bucks and I can make quite a few octopi with the piece I bought.

 

Anyway, you need:

  • a sewing needle,
  • furry cloth (or fleece like cloth supposedly, don’t quote me ;)),
  • pins,
  • a pen,
  • templates for the pieces,
  • safety eyes (I got mine at Joann’s),
  • stuffing,
  • and thread similar in color to the cloth.

Step 1: Cut out the pieces for the head. The first image is the shape I used for the second octopus, the second image was the first shape I used. The fatter football shape makes the head more rounder. The skinnier the footballs, the more oval the head will be. Now don’t think that you can make really fat footballs and it will work, believe me it won’t (had to redo those pieces…). I’d try to stick to a similar shape as in the Pinterest photo. If you know more about sewing you may have an easier time coming up with the templates. Once you have the templates, trace them with pen (keeping in mind the direction of the fur) and then cut out the pieces. Tip: I recommend drawing out the line of where you will be sewing, it helps keep your seams consistent (or anyway it helped me :P).

Step 2: Mark were you want your eyes placed. Carefully snip the area. I recommend using small nail scissors or something. The hole can get big fast, so start with small. A cross shape hole helps. Insert your safety eyes.

 

Plush Octopus Tutorial

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Step 3: Pin the first two pieces together, once again keeping in mind the direction of the fur. Start sewing. It is probably smart to do a back-stitch, logically I’d assume it’s stronger, but laziness and hatred of sewing eventually got to me and I gave up. Tip: Remember that you only want to sew around half the football, stop at the points. Do half the football, then attach the next piece, then do half the football again. You are making a sphere!Β That may sound like stupid advice but if you get in the flow (or watching something interesting on Netflix), there is the risk of forgetting πŸ™‚ Remember to leave a hole for stuffing the head.

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Step 4: All right! You got all the pieces sewn together. Now flip it right side out, and stuff the head. Sew the head shut and you’re done. I think the stitch I used to sew the head shut is called the mattress stitch, but once again don’t quote me. If you just do a quick google of sewing shut plush toys, you’ll get plenty of wonderful tutorials.

Step 5: Now it’s time for the many, many legs. The first octopus I made had skinnier legs, more similar to the ones in the Pinterest photo. The second one I tried to make fatter legs using the template shape in the photo below. Anyway, trace out the shape you want (maybe do one mock-up just in case) and cut out the pieces. Once again keep in mind the direction of fur. You will need 16 pieces to make 8 legs (yes, I can do math ;)).

octopus plush

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Step 6: Place the right sides of 2 pieces facing each other and sew the leg pieces together. Make sure to leave an area open to stuff the leg. I left it open at the skinny part of the leg, but the side could work too. Just as long as you can flip the leg right sides facing out and stick the stuffing in. Then sew the leg shut the same way you did on the head. (Forgive my nails in the photo, I was painting earlier that day and apparently missed a bunch of the red paint :P)

Step 7: Repeat step 6 seven more times πŸ™‚

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Step 8: Form the legs into a ring. I just threaded the needle through the narrow part of the leg all the wayΒ  through and did that for all 8 legs. Then I joined the round together in whatever way I could.

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Step 9: Pin the leg circle to the bottom of the head where you want it. It’ll be easier to sew the legs on this way. Honestly this was the most difficult part for me. I made sure to sew the legs on in the center of the circle and then I also when on the outside of the circle (like the Pinterest photo shows) and sewed there too. I’m not sure how secure my stitching was so I figured doing it in two different places was smart.

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Step 10: You are basically done. You can add a mustache on or any other accessories you want. I made the mustache from felt and just glued it on…I was done with sewing by that point and I (unsurprisingly) have fabric glue. I haven’t decided what I want to do with my second octopus…maybe its a girl…?

Octopus Plush Tutorial

I hope you enjoy my glamor shots of the octopi πŸ˜‰ Let me know if there is anything I can clear up on this tutorial… even though honestly this is the extent of my sewing knowledge….I think they turned out pretty good despite that fact πŸ˜‰

Any suggestions on who the new member of the octopus family should be are welcome. Shall it be a girly octopus or can you guys come up with something more creative? πŸ˜‰ Comment below!

As always…you can follow me on twitter (here), visit my Etsy shop (here), or like my Facebook page (here) πŸ™‚

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A View of Prague (Canvas Cutout Tutorial)

Prague Canvas Cutout

I finally bring you the total experiment piece that I promised you guys! πŸ˜€ What do you think of my silhouette of Prague (ignore the vinyl cutouts, those are other experiments ;))?

I have a sort-of tutorial on how I made it. It’s a sort-of tutorial because I totally made up everything as IΒ  went along and would probably change quite a few things the next time around πŸ™‚ But it was fun to try πŸ˜€

I totally was planing on doing something else with the canvas, I’m sure you guys have seen the tutorials on how to do this:

I was totally planning on making my own, then I couldn’t decide on what pattern to use so I thought of something completely different to do πŸ™‚

Materials: Canvas (you can find packs for pretty cheap, I got a pack of 3 for $5 at Ross of all places), Exacto Knife, Cardboard, Paper, Acrylic Paint (cheap stuff rocks! ;)), and image with multiple layers.

Step 1: Choose your image and print it out. This is the image I used:

What I loved about it was the multiple layers of the buildings, that’s the type of image that will work the best for this. Print it off, black and white is probably easiest. When you have that done make sure you can fit it on your canvas in the way you want. I had to cut off a couple inches from the sides. Tip: Remember that you can’t go onto the wooden frame of the canvas. So stick to the square in the middle.

Step 2: I use the “I’m poor and crafty” method of transferring outlines of images I want. This means on the printed side of you image trace the lines you want. Keep in mind that the first layer has to be attached to the canvas, so you can’t have random bits that aren’t attached to anything. Trace all the layers you want, I only did two. Make sure to trace hard, it’s easier if you can see your lines on the other side of the paper. Next flip your paper over and shade over where your trace lines are. You want a nice thick layer of pencil on that side.

Step 3: Now you transfer the first layer onto the canvas. To do this cut out the area of the photo that you wanted to fit into the square/rectangle of the under side of the canvas (I really wish I realized that I should take a photo of this :P). Now place the photo in the space behind the canvas (the wrong side of the canvas) with the shaded side of the photo touching the canvas. Trace over the first layer of the image that you want to be the front of the cutout. Press hard, it’s not easy to transfer the pencil lines. After you finish tracing, take out the photo and go over the lines on the canvas again. Make sure you can see the lines well.

Step 4: Use your Exacto knife to cut along the lines you just made. Then repeat the same steps but transfer the second layer image onto a piece of cardboard, I recommend using something thicker than what I used (it will look cooler and more 3d). Just make sure you remember which side will face forward in you cutout (I didn’t realize until just now that my second layer is flipped the wrong way).

Step 5: Cut out a support for your canvas layer. It really flops around otherwise. Out of cardboard cut out the basic shape of your outline, it doesn’t need to be perfect.

Canvas cutout steps 2,3,4

Step 6: Now with all the cutting out done it’s time to paint. I just used acrylic paint I got on sale and a large brush. Do whatever color scheme you want. I didn’t have newspaper to protect the floor, so I used a large piece of paper. I also painted half the paper to be the background of the cutout. You can have your wall be the background if you want, but I wanted a 3d painting effect. Tip: Don’t forget to paint the sides of the wood frame a dark color. Otherwise it will be really obvious that there’s a wooden frame.

canvas cutout step 5

Step 7: After your stuff dries, glue everything together. Start with the support for the canvas, then the second layer, then the background. I can’t really give you much help with this since I just stuck it all together the best I could. You might wantΒ  to think of supports or something to keep the layers from bending funky. Tip: Glue very carefully! Believe me the glue will show if you get it on the nice side of your layer, and you will have to repaint. It’s a serious pain so whatever you do, do it carefully!

Canvas cutout step 6Background paper, right before gluing

Canvas cutout step 6

See what I mean about glue showing? After everything’s glued and you’re happy you can hang it up for all the world to see πŸ™‚ I used packing tape on the back side and then attached a command strip.

As I’m sure you’ve guessed, I realized some important things I need to change the next time I do this. It was still fun and I think I’ll let it stay on my wall (surrounded by other experiments ;))

I want to know how your cutout’s turn out!! Send pictures and comment on the blog please!! πŸ˜€

Now don’t forget you can follow me on twitter (here), visit my etsy shop (here), or like my Facebook page (here)

Christmas Penguins

Wow I haven’t posted in a while πŸ˜› I’ve been busy (and lazy), lol. I do have some stuff planned πŸ™‚ I have a total experiment I’m in the process of making, I have a new line of jewelry I want to start making, a couple of knitting projects to show, and hopefully some other things to show you guys (If I have time before starting school).

I thought I’d start off the New Year with a little tutorial on how to make yummy holiday penguins πŸ™‚

Olive Penguins

Cute aren’t they πŸ™‚ And they’re easy to make too πŸ™‚

All you need is jumbo olives, small olives, cream cheese, a carrot, and wooden toothpicks.

Just take a jumbo olive and slice it lengthwise. Don’t slice all the way through, just through one layer of the olive so there’s a pocket (I don’t know how else to describe it). Basically you only want to cut through the belly, but not his back.

Next take a chunk of cream cheese, chilled works best, and stuff it into the slice. Make it look nice in whatever way works πŸ™‚

Now take your carrot and slice a piece off so you have a circle. Cut a small triangle out of the circle. This forms the penguins feet and beak.

Take the carrot triangle and put it into the top of a small olive. On one end of the olive there will be a perfect hole for the piece. Just make it look beak-like πŸ™‚

Now it’s assembly time! πŸ™‚ Take the jumbo olive and line it up on the feet, cream cheese where the slot on the feet is, and line up the small olive on top of that with the beak facing the same way. Take a wooden toothpick and stick it though the middle and through all the layers until you hit the carrot feet. Make sure to go through the carrot feet too or they’ll fall off πŸ™‚

You’re all done! Know you know how to form your own edible penguin army! (mwahahaha) πŸ˜‰

Now don’t forget you can follow me on twitter (here), visit my etsy shop (here), or like by facebook page (here).

Happy New Year!

Resin Jewelry Tips

So I finally made a new batch of resin pendants πŸ™‚ This means that all of you are in luck πŸ˜€ I will finally give you the tips about resin that I’ve been promising you from the creation of this blog πŸ™‚

Supplies

All the supplies I use are pretty cheap (being broke makes you very creative).

1. Buy disposable medicine measuring cups in bulk. If you pour resin often it will be a whole lot easier to just throw them away instead of washing them (trust me on this). You can buy decently priced ones on amazon, here.

resin measuring cups

2. The sticks I use to mix the resin are drink stirrers I bought at Dollar Tree. Just wander around and see what would be comfortable and easy to use for you. The pack I have are long, and plastic. To be honest I think anything will work, as long as you don’t use it for food later on.

Resin Stir sticks

3. I use a thick, old, wooden cutting board and an octagon Silpat under the pieces I’m filling up with resin. The Silpat is great. It’s normally pricy but my dad found one at Goodwill for a fewΒ  cents (I love that place!). The cool thing about the Silpat is that resin will not stick to it, so even if you spill you can just peel the spill off when it sets πŸ™‚ If you don’t want to spend the money (which I don’t), just find a level board, old cutting board, whatever you use just make sure you don’t mind ruining it. Resin will spill and set. It is impossible totally wipe up resin.

resin set up

Resin

4. The resin I use is EasyCast Clear Casting Resin. I think there may be better option out there. It’s hard to get it to cure completely solid (I’m working on a remedy and will let you know ;)). It sets fairly fine, it’s just not glass hard. The price is fantastic though with a 40% off coupon at Michaels so I can deal with it πŸ™‚ This is the best, biggest tip that I will ever give you: Warm up your resin! Take a bucket or something, pour warm water into it, place your resin bottle in in and leave it until the bottles are warm to the touch when you take the bottles out.Β  If the bottles are cold, it will not set properly!

Warming up resin

5. Along the same lines as the previous tip, make sure you let your resin cure someplace warm. Mine sit on the kitchen table, by the heating vent, and this is still not always enough. The ideal temperature is between 75F and up apparently. This is why your resin will cure a whole lot better in the summer.

Randomness

6. If you’re embedding anything in the resin and need to glue something in (or seal paper), I suggest using Mod Podge. White Elmer’s glue looks dark and a bit weird under resin, in my experience.

7. Wearing gloves while working with the resin may be a good idea. If you get any on your bare hands it will feel a bit weird. I’ve heard that some people can get rashes from it (after all resin is chemicals).

 

Now if you don’t feel like attempting your own pieces anymore, you can always buy them from me πŸ˜‰ Click here. Or help me expand my business and donate to my Indiegogo campaign here (you get a custom piece of jewelry and no shipping cost!) πŸ˜€

Free Octopus Crochet Pattern

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Isn’t he a little cutie πŸ™‚ and guess what? It’s my own pattern!!! XD This time instead of giving you guys a link and some tips…I’m giving you a pattern! Isn’t this exciting?! (or is it just me ;))Β  So here we go πŸ™‚ :

Materials:

Any yarn you like
Any crochet hook you like
(the size of the hook and yarn will determine how big your octopus will be)

Abbreviations:

sc=single crochet
inc=increase
dec=decrease

Instructions:

Head:

start with 6 sc in magic loop (video instructions)
Round 1: inc around (12)
Round 2: 1 sc, inc (18)
Round 3: inc, 2 sc (24)
Round 4: 3 sc, inc (30)
Round 5: inc, 4 sc (36)
Round 6-9: sc around (36)
Round 10: dec, 4 sc (30)
Round 11: 3 sc, dec (24)
Round 12: dec, 2 sc (18)
Round 13: dec, 14 sc, dec (16)

Now you’re done with the head πŸ™‚

Tentacles: Don’t tie off yet. Now chain 16 (or however long you want the tentacles to be) Now two sc from the hook begin to double crochet. Double crochet in each stitch until you get back to the head. Skip one sc on the head and sc to attach the second side of the tentacle. Then repeat the first step.

When you finish all eight tentacles you can add the eyes and stuff the octopus. After you finish stuffing it you will notice that there is a large hole at the bottom of the head where you stuffed it. To close this hole you will need to crochet a patch and sew it on.

Patch:

sc 6 in magic ring.
Round 1: inc around (12)
Round 2: 1 sc, inc (18)
If the patch is still too small:
Round 3: inc, 2 sc (24)
Round 4: 3 sc, inc (30)

Now sew on the patch and hid all the yarn ends and you’re done πŸ˜€

See he’s a cutie right πŸ™‚ Now what to name him? πŸ™‚

This is the first pattern I’ve ever written so if you think there’s an error or something doesn’t make sense, just let me know and I’ll do my best to fix it as fast as possible πŸ˜€

I hope you enjoy my cutie of an octopus :3 now go build your octopi army (mwahahaha ;))

Free Lacy Knitted Cowl Pattern

Remember how I said I might go to a movie today…yeah, that didn’t happen. The friends that were planning this got the dates wrong, so that’s probably happening next Tuesday. Instead I’m showing you the project I promised to show you guys…and you get a free pattern! πŸ˜€

My mom loves knitting, I another hand never have. I’d rather crochet. But after this project I actually started liking knitting πŸ™‚ It was not a smart project to learn how to knit on…believe me, lots of frustration happened but it ended successfully.

I am really sorry for the crappy pictures. My phone really doesn’t like the coral color I used so it’s the best I could do. It looks pretty good in person. I promise πŸ™‚

Coral Lacy Knit CoralLike my Pinterest in the background? πŸ™‚ See the cowl has a really nice leafy pattern to it. It wasn’t too hard to make once I got the hang of it. It’s made with mostly knits, purls every once in a while, yarn overs to create the holes (it’s really easy, you just wrap the yarn over the right needle once before doing the knit that comes right after), and creative placement of a few types of decreases. The decreases are simple to get the hang of, just look up the names of them (there’s a key included with all the stitch names :)) on YouTube.

Link for the pattern: www.sweaterbabe.com/142-drawstring-lace-cowl-free-pdf-knitting-pattern/

Since most of the patterns are one’s you have to buy, you do have to put it into your cart and check out. You don’t have to provide any information outside of your email and a created password…I think. It’s been a while since I first got it. A link is emailed to you that you can access any time.

Tips on making this cowl:

  1. If you are a first time knitter keep in mind that when you are doing the yarn overs and looking at the graph of the pattern, the yarn over and the knit drawn next to it count as one. The yarn over is not counted when counting stitches. Just ignore it and count the knits only. (This messed me up sooo bad the first few times I tried knitting….until my mom explained this concept :P)
  2. I suggest having a row counter or at least a piece of paper and a pen next to you at all times to keep track of what row you’re on. It helps a whole lot.
  3. Don’t be upset if it doesn’t work out when you first try. Just undo it and try again. You aren’t paying for trying again after all πŸ™‚ and no one has to know πŸ˜‰
  4. There’s a whole lot of repeating in this pattern, just keep this in mind (it can either be a blessing…or boring :))
  5. You can make they pom poms easily with just cardboard and the yarn you knitted with. If you don’t know how to make them this seems like a simple tutorial. There are a whole lot of ways to make them so just google it πŸ™‚
  6. If you want it to look like the photo in the pattern use a bulkier yarn. Something similar to the yarn listed in the pattern. I used a thinner yarn and it turned out smaller and thinner than in the pattern. I still like it, but it could be nicer bulkier πŸ™‚

Once it gets cold enough to wear the scarf I’ll update this post with a photo of me wearing it, you can’t really tell what it looks like from my photo πŸ˜›

I hope you like this pattern πŸ˜€

PS I’ve got a surprise for you guys on Friday πŸ˜‰

Free Candy Colored Arm warmers Pattern

Hi!

I promised you guys more crochet patterns…well I’ve obviously been procrastinating. I promise I wasn’t only slacking off!! I was on a family vacation for a week (the rest of the time was lazing around…hehe). I finally decided to show you guys another project you can crochet (that doesn’t involve baby patterns :D)

I have a wonderful fake leather jacket but it has frigid sleeves πŸ˜› So I have to wear something with sleeves underneath in the winter. But I have some outfit ideas in mind involving some tank tops I bought this summer…and I don’t want to freeze. To combat the cold (not that Oregon gets very cold, I’m just a walking icicle) I made myself a set of arm warmers. I also really wanted to use my wonderfully bright coral yarn πŸ˜€

striped arm warmers(Sorry but the pictures are going to suck today… I’m using my phone and it’s not cooperating. It doesn’t help that the coral color I used is disliked by my camera because it’s so bright πŸ™‚ )

Anyway these arm warmers go up to about my elbows. I’m sure you can make them shorter or longer easily. The pattern is fairly simple. The ribbed edges are made using a single crochet back and forth in the back loops only. The rest is made using double crochets.

LINK TO PATTERN: www.mooglyblog.com/all-grown-up-arm-warmers/

Tip: Now the pinstripe is a bit more difficult. I have two different types on mine. If you look closely you’ll see that most of the pinstripes are upraised and you can see the braiding clearly. It also gives the arm warmers a stacked cup look. At the wrist the pinstripe is flatter. I’m pretty sure it’s supposed to be the second way.

striped arm warmersThe top line is the first way I was describing. The bottom line is the second way. Following is the description of how I did both ways. I think I just misunderstood the pattern so do whichever way you think is according to the pattern (personally I think it’s the second way). These both require back post stitches.

1st method: In this method you do a back post stitch but you do the easy way around the post of the double crochet. In other words do not go through any loops in the back. Don’t hook into the row you just made. Go just below the top edge of the double crochet. There will be little resistance when you do this.

2nd method: This time when you back post crochet go through the loop in the bottom of the top edge of the double crochet (if that makes sense). It will be a bit difficult to pull thru. This way you make sure to hook through the top edge of your double crochet.

I suggest looking up tutorials of back post crochet and see what you make of it. I’m a fairly new crocheter so I don’t know how to explain this properly. Whatever way you do it I’m sure it will turn out great πŸ˜€

Now I’ll leave you guys with a photo from my lovely vacation to the Cove Palisades πŸ™‚

Cove Palisades, Oregon

What projects would you guys like me to attempt? I could use some more ideas πŸ˜›

By the way all you lovely people, don’t forget to check out my Etsy shop πŸ™‚